The tombs of Moti-Gohram and Muhammad Shah Altazai are veritable jewels of Jhal Magsi



The district of Lasbela is also host to number of historical tombs. In fact, one of the earliest such tombs on Pakistani soil is located in Bela town and belongs to Muhammad bin Harun, who was the Arab governor of Makran. Bela is also host to the tombs of the the Koreja Jams who were the former rulers of Lasbela. The cemetery of the Jams is located 8 km away from Bela at Barabagh. There are several Chaukhandi tombs – taking the form of a beautiful stone canopy and the domed structure in this graveyard. The stone carved graves of the Jams of Lasbela are ornately carved and belong to Jam Ghulam Shah Jamote and his two wives; Jam Aali the founder of Jam dynasty of Lasbela; Jam Dagar; Jam Dina or Dinar; and Jam Jangi. The tomb of the legendry Jam Bijar Jokhio, who was chief of the Jokhia tribe of Karachi and Thatta during the reign of Ghulam ShahKalhoro (1757-1772), is also located in this graveyard.

Apart from Bela, there are several other towns and villages where one finds the Chaukundi tombs. Most of these belong to the various sub-castes of the Samma of Sindh who ruled over Lasbela. The tombs of the Jakharas and Jokhias are mainly found in the Hab and Dureji regions of Lasbela. The largest cemetery containing the Chaukhandi tombs is located at Hindan, lying 115 km northwest of Karachi. There are 71 tombstones in the graveyard, which belong to the Jakharas – who are also a sub-caste of the Sammas. According to Vogel’s report of 1902-3, all the tombs belong to the Jakhara tribe. This was also confirmed by local people during my frequent visits to the Hindan graveyard of the Jakharas. Some of the graveyards are also associated with the Kalmati tribe which is mostly found at the Bala and Bhavani graveyards near Winder and Hab towns respectively.


Three ancient pilgrimage centers or tirthas – Hinglaj, Lahaut La Makan and Shah Nurani (the patron saint of the Jokhias) – have always attracted pilgrims from many regions of Pakistan and India. This pilgrimage/religious economy played a dominant role in the tribal culture of Balochistan and Sindh. This was one of the reasons that many tribes from Sindh controlled the routes of caravans to get taxes in return for safe passage or security provided to the pilgrims to these tirthas. Over a period of time these tribes became so powerful that they began to rule the Lasbela region, leaving behind vast treasures in the form of the Chaukhandi tombs and fortresses which can be found in almost every valley of the district of Lasbela.

Unfortunately though, the majority of these tombs of Sindhi and Baloch tribes have fallen victim to neglect. They are crumbling slab by slab.

The author is an anthropologist and has authored three books: ‘Perspectives on the art and architecture of Sindh’, ‘Memorial Stones: Tharparkar’ and ‘Archaeology, Religion and Art in Sindh’

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